September 5, 2004
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Under the Spell of
Quetzalcóatl By Megan Harlan |
New York Times article link UNDER THE SPELL OF QUIETZALCÖATL |
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From Mexico City's airport, a plush, air-conditioned Pullman de Morelos bus (800) 624-0360, www.pullman.com.mx, leaves every 40 minutes for Cuernavaca. The trip costs $8.70, at 11.5 pesos to the dollar, and takes 90 minutes. A 40-minute taxi ride from Cuernavaca to Tepoztlán costs about $10.
What to See
Tepozteco temple is open daily. Entry, $3. There is no vehicular access.
Ex-Convento Dominico de la Natividad, Centro, (52-739) 395-0255, is open Tuesday to Sunday, as is the Historical Museum of Tepoztlán upstairs. Free.
Where to Stay
Posada del Tepozteco, Paraiso No. 3, Tepoztlán, (52-739) 395-0010, fax (52-739) 395-0323, www.posadadeltepozteco.com, has 19 attractive rooms and suites, all with mountain and town views, starting at $135 a night, including breakfast buffet. The restaurant serves tasty Mexican and European dishes, like chili-oil-infused Aztec soup (about $5) to filet mignon (about $15). There are two outdoor pools and a small spa. A two-hour visit to the hotel's temazcal, or sweat lodge, costs about $30 a person.
Villas Valle Místico, Camino al Otlahyo 10, Colonia Huilotepec, (52-739) 395-1770, fax (52-739) 395-1770 www.tourbymexico.com/vallemistico, has four private cabanas in a quiet residential neighborhood a 15-minute drive north of town. Among the amenities are a crystal-lined pool, a Jacuzzi and an extensive spa menu. Doubles: $115 to $150.
Where to Eat
Restaurant Axitla, (52-739) 395-0519, is situated on three lush acres where Avenida del Tepozteco ends and the trail to the pyramid begins. The excellent array of Mexican entrees, like enchiladas, are served only until 7 p.m. Wednesday to Sunday. Also notable is its large selection of tequilas. Dinner for two with drinks costs about $40.
Named for its brightly painted walls, Los Colorines, Avenida de Tepozteco 13, (52-739) 395-0198, offers outstanding Mexican dishes, like chicken enchilada with mole sauce (about $7). Open daily except Tuesday. Drinks include micheladas - Mexican beer served with lime juice in a salt-rimmed glass. Dinner for two, $40.
On weekends, El Ciruelo, Zaragoza 17, (52-739) 395-1037, attracts a stylish crowd for updated Mexican dishes like shrimp taquitos in the stagelike adobe courtyard. Open daily. Dinner for two with drinks, $70.
Tepoznieves, Avenida 5 de Mayo, (52-739) 395-3813, aptly translates to "Ice Cream of the Gods.'' The more than 70 flavors like rose petal ice cream and lime sorbet cost about 70 cents to $1.40 a scoop.
MEGAN HARLAN is a writer and poet who lives in San Francisco.